Everyone against specialty coffee?

Lately, specialty coffee seems to divide people more than ever.  Maybe because it has moved beyond its niche, or maybe because it is simply becoming more visible. Either way, it seems to divide people.

On one side are those who defend specialty coffee no matter what. On the other are those who criticise it through clickbait headlines, often turning personal experiences into general truths. As often happens, the reality is more complex.

Where we stand as Peacocks Coffee

As Peacocks Coffee, we do not defend specialty coffee as a label in itself. We defend what it has helped build and improve within the coffee industry, while also recognising its limits.

Specialty coffee has not always been inclusive, either towards producers or consumers. In some cases, it has created distance rather than accessibility. That is why this conversation matters to us.

What is specialty coffee?

Specialty coffee is a term introduced and defined by the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA). For a long time, it was defined by a sensory score, especially the well-known minimum of 80 points used to classify a coffee as specialty.

Today, the definition has been updated and broadened. It no longer refers only to quality in the cup, but also to consistency, sustainability and the impact coffee has on the people involved in both production and consumption.

For us, this shift matters. Updating a definition also means recognising that the previous one reflected a more limited view of coffee’s value. Moving beyond sensory scoring creates space for aspects that were not always considered before.

But even a broader definition has its limits. It helps frame what specialty coffee can mean, but it cannot contain everything that gives coffee value. Not every valuable coffee necessarily falls into the “specialty” category. For this reason, what matters is not only whether a coffee fits a definition, but how it is produced, processed, prepared, communicated and valued.

Where consumer criticism comes in

A small note is important here: not every coffee classified as specialty is then roasted, extracted and communicated in a way that truly translates into a valuable experience in the cup. In Italy, there is still a long way to go.

This is where some consumer criticism becomes relevant, especially when it focuses on cafés and baristas serving specialty coffee. Some of the issues raised are real: unclear or overly self-referential communication, attitudes that can feel distant or unwelcoming, difficulty translating technical knowledge into an accessible and hospitable experience, and cafés that seem to follow the same formula.

These are real issues the industry can, and should, work on.

Not the whole picture

The way coffee is communicated to customers makes a difference. If it feels like a lecture, or worse, like arrogance, it creates distance. But reducing all specialty coffee to this perception means oversimplifying a much more complex reality.

It is also important to recognise the work of those who try to tell the story of coffee with care, knowledge and respect. A few negative experiences do not define an entire sector.

“Cookie-cutter” cafés and the Italian bar scene

Criticism of standardisation in specialty cafés is not only Italian. Around the world, people point to the same issue: cafés that seem to follow the same aesthetic, language and format, often associated with the so-called Nordic model.

It is a fair observation, and it opens up wider questions that go beyond the scope of this article. Yet in the Italian context, criticism of repetition and standardisation is rarely applied with the same attention to the wider bar scene.

A certain model of Italian bar is also highly standardised, and this often affects both coffee quality and service: burnt, oily espresso, poorly stored or poorly treated coffee, frozen pastries, low-quality products, weak overall standards and little attention to the customer experience. Anyone nostalgic for that kind of bar will not struggle to find one.

In Italy, there are more than 120,000 bars.* Most of them look nothing like the minimal cafés being criticised.

Source: FIPE-Confcommercio, Foodservice Report 2025.

It is not just about taste

We live in an increasingly globalised world, where the way we drink, choose and value coffee is also changing. This invites us to look at coffee from different perspectives, without remaining attached to a single model: neither the “traditional bar” as an unchanging reference, nor the “specialty coffee shop” as the new absolute standard.

Today, different experiences coexist. Maybe that is the most positive part: we can take the best from each. For us, what matters is helping the industry evolve, and with it the way we experience coffee, with more openness, awareness and accessibility.

Before the bar, there is a supply chain

When communicated properly, specialty coffee broadens the perspective. It is not only about the cup, but about the entire supply chain. Yet many criticisms stop at the final step: the bar, the barista, the café experience.

There is often little discussion about production, pricing, sustainability, or the fact that coffee is not Italian, and not European. Raising awareness about this is part of our work, and we will continue to do so while trying to be more inclusive in the way we communicate.

“I just want a coffee in peace”

Not everyone wants a full explanation with every cup of coffee. People’s time, attention and willingness to listen vary, and that should be respected.

At the same time, coffee is increasingly part of a wider conversation around origin, supply chains and everyday choices, much like food. It is no longer understood by everyone as a single, fixed experience or flavour. There are different brewing methods, extraction styles and ways of enjoying it, and for many people this can feel unfamiliar or overwhelming.

The point is not to turn every coffee into a lesson. But talking about what sits behind what we drink or eat is not an act of superiority. For those who care deeply about coffee, it is part of the work.

Consumers should be engaged, not judged.

Understanding the customer

Providing a good hospitality experience should be a shared goal across the entire industry, not only among those working with specialty coffee. This means understanding who you are serving, so that advice or information does not feel imposed.

If someone wants to drink their coffee with sugar, there is absolutely no problem. It may simply be worth explaining, when appropriate, that many specialty coffees tend to become more sour rather than sweeter when sugar is added.

The point is to guide the experience, if the person is open to it, without turning every interaction into a lesson.

When criticism grows

If criticism of specialty coffee is increasing, it is not only because of provocative headlines. It is also a sign that something has become more visible, more widespread and more exposed to judgement.

Some criticism will be superficial. Some will be more useful. But all of it can push us to reflect internally: what are we doing well, and what can we do better? Not to defend a category at all costs, but to understand how it should evolve.

And in the end, how good is it to simply enjoy a cup of coffee?